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1Supermarkets have long been suffering as one of the thinnest-margined businesses in existence and one of the
2least-looked-forward-to places to work or visit.For more than a decade,they have been under attack from e-commerce
3giants,blamed for making Americans fat,and accused of contributing to climate change.
4Supermarkets can technically be defined as giants housing 15,000 to 60,000 different products.The revolutionary idea of
5a self-service grocery,where people could hunt and gather food from aisles rather than asking a clerk to fetch items
6from behind a counter,first came about in America.There is some debate about which was the very first,but over the years
7a consensus has built around King Kullen Supermarket,founded in New York in 1930.
8For some 300 years,Americans had fed themselves from small stores and public markets.Shopping for food involved
9mud,noisy chickens,clouds of flies,nasty smells,
10bargaining,and getting short-changed.The supermarket imitated the Fordist factory,with its emphasis on efficiency and
11standardization,and reimagined it as a place to buy food. Supermarkets may not feel cutting-edge now,but they were a
12revolution in distribution at the time.They were such strange marvels that,on her first official state visit to the
13United States in 1957,Queen Elizabeth II insisted on an impromptu ( 即 兴 的 )tour of a suburban-Maryland Giant Food.
14The typical supermarket layout has barely changed over the past 90 years.Most stores open with flowers,fruit and
15vegetables at the front as a breath of freshness to arouse our appetite.Meanwhile,they keep the milk,eggs,and other
16daily basics all the way back so you'll travel through as much of the store as possible,and be tempted along the way.
17In the early days,as the supermarket multiplied,so did our suspicion of it.We have long feared that this “revolution in
18distribution”uses corporate black magic on our appetite. The book The Hidden Persuaders,published in 1957,warned that
19supermarkets were putting women in a“hypnoidal trance (催眠恍惚状态),“causing them to wander aisles bumping into boxes
20and"picking things off shelves at random."
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