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1The streets were crowded with people. Priests were passing in processions, beating their dreary tambourines; police and
2custom-house officers with pointed hats encrusted with lac and carrying two sabres hung to their waists; soldiers, clad
3in blue cotton with white stripes, and bearing guns; the Mikado's guards, enveloped in silken doubles, hauberks and
4coats of mail; and numbers of military folk of all ranks--for the military profession is as much respected in Japan as
5it is despised in China--went hither and thither in groups and pairs. Passepartout saw, too, begging friars, long-robed
6pilgrims, and simple civilians, with their warped and jet-black hair, big heads, long busts, slender legs, short
7stature, and complexions varying from copper-colour to a dead white, but never yellow, like the Chinese, from whom the
8Japanese widely differ. He did not fail to observe the curious equipages--carriages and palanquins, barrows supplied
9with sails, and litters made of bamboo; nor the women--whom he thought not especially handsome--who took little steps
10with their little feet, whereon they wore canvas shoes, straw sandals, and clogs of worked wood, and who displayed
11tight-looking eyes, flat chests, teeth fashionably blackened, and gowns crossed with silken scarfs, tied in an enormous
12knot behind an ornament which the modern Parisian ladies seem to have borrowed from the dames of Japan. Passepartout
13wandered for several hours in the midst of this motley crowd, looking in at the windows of the rich and curious shops,
14the jewellery establishments glittering with quaint Japanese ornaments, the restaurants decked with streamers and
15banners, the tea-houses, where the odorous beverage was being drunk with "saki," a liquor concocted from the
16fermentation of rice, and the comfortable smoking-houses, where they were puffing, not opium, which is almost unknown in
17Japan, but a very fine, stringy tobacco. He went on till he found himself in the fields, in the midst of vast rice
18plantations. There he saw dazzling camellias expanding themselves, with flowers which were giving forth their last
19colours and perfumes, not on bushes, but on trees, and within bamboo enclosures, cherry, plum, and apple trees, which
20the Japanese cultivate rather for their blossoms than their fruit, and which queerly-fashioned, grinning scarecrows
21protected from the sparrows, pigeons, ravens, and other voracious birds. On the branches of the cedars were perched
22large eagles; amid the foliage of the weeping willows were herons, solemnly standing on one leg; and on every hand were
23crows, ducks, hawks, wild birds, and a multitude of cranes, which the Japanese consider sacred, and which to their minds
24symbolise long life and prosperity. As he was strolling along, Passepartout espied some violets among the shrubs.
25"Good!" said he; "I'll have some supper." But, on smelling them, he found that they were odourless. "No chance there,"
26thought he. The worthy fellow had certainly taken good care to eat as hearty a breakfast as possible before leaving the
27"Carnatic;" but, as he had been walking about all day, the demands of hunger were becoming importunate. He observed that
28the butchers stalls contained neither mutton, goat, nor pork; and, knowing also that it is a sacrilege to kill cattle,
29which are preserved solely for farming, he made up his mind that meat was far from plentiful in Yokohama--nor was he
30mistaken; and, in default of butcher's meat, he could have wished for a quarter of wild boar or deer, a partridge, or
31some quails, some game or fish, which, with rice, the Japanese eat almost exclusively. But he found it necessary to keep
32up a stout heart, and to postpone the meal he craved till the following morning. Night came, and Passepartout re-entered
33the native quarter, where he wandered through the streets, lit by vari-coloured lanterns, looking on at the dancers, who
34were executing skilful steps and boundings, and the astrologers who stood in the open air with their telescopes. Then he
35came to the harbour, which was lit up by the resin torches of the fishermen, who were fishing from their boats. The
36streets at last became quiet, and the patrol, the officers of which, in their splendid costumes, and surrounded by their
37suites, Passepartout thought seemed like ambassadors, succeeded the bustling crowd. Each time a company passed,
38Passepartout chuckled, and said to himself: "Good! another Japanese embassy departing for Europe!"
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