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1JONATHAN HARKER'S JOURNAL (Kept in shorthand.) 3 May. Bistritz.--Left Munich at 8:35 P. M., on 1st May, arriving at
2Vienna early next morning; should have arrived at 6:46, but train was an hour late. Buda-Pesth seems a wonderful place,
3from the glimpse which I got of it from the train and the little I could walk through the streets. I feared to go very
4far from the station, as we had arrived late and would start as near the correct time as possible. The impression I had
5was that we were leaving the West and entering the East; the most western of splendid bridges over the Danube, which is
6here of noble width and depth, took us among the traditions of Turkish rule. We left in pretty good time, and came after
7nightfall to Klausenburgh. Here I stopped for the night at the Hotel Royale. I had for dinner, or rather supper, a
8chicken done up some way with red pepper, which was very good but thirsty. (Mem., get recipe for Mina.) I asked the
9waiter, and he said it was called "paprika hendl," and that, as it was a national dish, I should be able to get it
10anywhere along the Carpathians. I found my smattering of German very useful here; indeed, I don't know how I should be
11able to get on without it. Having had some time at my disposal when in London, I had visited the British Museum, and
12made search among the books and maps in the library regarding Transylvania; it had struck me that some foreknowledge of
13the country could hardly fail to have some importance in dealing with a nobleman of that country. I find that the
14district he named is in the extreme east of the country, just on the borders of three states, Transylvania, Moldavia and
15Bukovina, in the midst of the Carpathian mountains; one of the wildest and least known portions of Europe. I was not
16able to light on any map or work giving the exact locality of the Castle Dracula, as there are no maps of this country
17as yet to compare with our own Ordnance Survey maps; but I found that Bistritz, the post town named by Count Dracula, is
18a fairly well-known place. I shall enter here some of my notes, as they may refresh my memory when I talk over my
19travels with Mina. In the population of Transylvania there are four distinct nationalities: Saxons in the South, and
20mixed with them the Wallachs, who are the descendants of the Dacians; Magyars in the West, and Szekelys in the East and
21North. I am going among the latter, who claim to be descended from Attila and the Huns. This may be so, for when the
22Magyars conquered the country in the eleventh century they found the Huns settled in it. I read that every known
23superstition in the world is gathered into the horseshoe of the Carpathians, as if it were the centre of some sort of
24imaginative whirlpool; if so my stay may be very interesting. (Mem., I must ask the Count all about them.) I did not
25sleep well, though my bed was comfortable enough, for I had all sorts of queer dreams. There was a dog howling all night
26under my window, which may have had something to do with it; or it may have been the paprika, for I had to drink up all
27the water in my carafe, and was still thirsty. Towards morning I slept and was wakened by the continuous knocking at my
28door, so I guess I must have been sleeping soundly then. I had for breakfast more paprika, and a sort of porridge of
29maize flour which they said was "mamaliga," and egg-plant stuffed with forcemeat, a very excellent dish, which they call
30"impletata." (Mem., get recipe for this also.) I had to hurry breakfast, for the train started a little before eight, or
31rather it ought to have done so, for after rushing to the station at 7:30 I had to sit in the carriage for more than an
32hour before we began to move. It seems to me that the further east you go the more unpunctual are the trains. What ought
33they to be in China? All day long we seemed to dawdle through a country which was full of beauty of every kind.
34Sometimes we saw little towns or castles on the top of steep hills such as we see in old missals; sometimes we ran by
35rivers and streams which seemed from the wide stony margin on each side of them to be subject to great floods. It takes
36a lot of water, and running strong, to sweep the outside edge of a river clear. At every station there were groups of
37people, sometimes crowds, and in all sorts of attire. Some of them were just like the peasants at home or those I saw
38coming through France and Germany, with short jackets and round hats and home-made trousers; but others were very
39picturesque. The women looked pretty, except when you got near them, but they were very clumsy about the waist. They had
40all full white sleeves of some kind or other, and most of them had big belts with a lot of strips of something
41fluttering from them like the dresses in a ballet, but of course there were petticoats under them. The strangest figures
42we saw were the Slovaks, who were more barbarian than the rest, with their big cow-boy hats, great baggy dirty-white
43trousers, white linen shirts, and enormous heavy leather belts, nearly a foot wide, all studded over with brass nails.
44They wore high boots, with their trousers tucked into them, and had long black hair and heavy black moustaches. They are
45very picturesque, but do not look prepossessing. On the stage they would be set down at once as some old Oriental band
46of brigands. They are, however, I am told, very harmless and rather wanting in natural self-assertion. It was on the
47dark side of twilight when we got to Bistritz, which is a very interesting old place. Being practically on the
48frontier--for the Borgo Pass leads from it into Bukovina--it has had a very stormy existence, and it certainly shows
49marks of it. Fifty years ago a series of great fires took place, which made terrible havoc on five separate occasions.
50At the very beginning of the seventeenth century it underwent a siege of three weeks and lost 13,000 people, the
51casualties of war proper being assisted by famine and disease. Count Dracula had directed me to go to the Golden Krone
52Hotel, which I found, to my great delight, to be thoroughly old-fashioned, for of course I wanted to see all I could of
53the ways of the country. I was evidently expected, for when I got near the door I faced a cheery-looking elderly woman
54in the usual peasant dress--white undergarment with long double apron, front, and back, of coloured stuff fitting almost
55too tight for modesty. When I came close she bowed and said, "The Herr Englishman?" "Yes," I said, "Jonathan Harker."
56She smiled, and gave some message to an elderly man in white shirt-sleeves, who had followed her to the door. He went,
57but immediately returned with a letter:-- "My Friend.--Welcome to the Carpathians. I am anxiously expecting you. Sleep
58well to-night. At three to-morrow the diligence will start for Bukovina; a place on it is kept for you. At the Borgo
59Pass my carriage will await you and will bring you to me. I trust that your journey from London has been a happy one,
60and that you will enjoy your stay in my beautiful land. "Your friend, "DRACULA." 4 May.--I found that my landlord had
61got a letter from the Count, directing him to secure the best place on the coach for me; but on making inquiries as to
62details he seemed somewhat reticent, and pretended that he could not understand my German. This could not be true,
63because up to then he had understood it perfectly; at least, he answered my questions exactly as if he did. He and his
64wife, the old lady who had received me, looked at each other in a frightened sort of way. He mumbled out that the money
65had been sent in a letter, and that was all he knew. When I asked him if he knew Count Dracula, and could tell me
66anything of his castle, both he and his wife crossed themselves, and, saying that they knew nothing at all, simply
67refused to speak further. It was so near the time of starting that I had no time to ask any one else, for it was all
68very mysterious and not by any means comforting. Just before I was leaving, the old lady came up to my room and said in
69a very hysterical way:
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